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Rémy 2009 : Retour à la Réunion et à Madagascar - Bon anniversaire Gaëlle !

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Bon anniversaire Gaëlle ! 
5 Décembre : Aujourd'hui, c'est l'anniversaire de Gaëlle. La journée sera particulièrement axée sur l'organisation de cet événement. Une grande soirée (pour fêter en même temps l'anniversaire de Renaud, un collègue de Mickaël) est prévue avec une trentaine d'invités, DJ, traiteur, etc... En bonus un ami de Mickaël, ancien guitariste de studio et ayant participé à une tournée avec Dire Straits, fait le déplacement depuis Tuléar (dans le sud du pays) pour animer encore un peu plus la soirée. La fête sera une réussite totale, tout le monde s'est amusé jusqu'à tard dans la nuit.

Une partie des invités


Gaëlle et Mickaël


Patrick à la guitare


T'as assuré man !


Avec Gaëlle


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Marché du Coum 
4 Décembre : Après une journée de repos suite à un mal de dos (sûrement dû aux longues randos de la semaine précédente), on se rend au marché du Coum : Un des marché populaire de Tananarive. Les marchés, ici, sont assez folkloriques, comme vous pourrez le voir sur les photos.

Premiers stands sur le bord de la route


Vente de matelas


Vente de canapés sur le bord de la route


L'intérieur du marché avec les stands d'artisanat malgache


Stand de djembés de fabrication locale


Charette à fainéant :-)



L'après-midi, au retour d'une petite balade, on se retrouve pris sous une pluie tropicale (saison oblige). On restera coincé une heure dans la voiture dans une rue. Sûrement une 4L qui a dû boire la tasse. En attendant, les enfants rentrent de l'école, chaussures à la main et pataugeant dans l'eau. Mais le sourire est toujours de mise.







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Tana : Avenue de l'indépendance, Gare 
2 Décembre : Autant mon voyage il y a 2 ans était préparé de A à Z avec beaucoup de trajets à travers le pays, autant cette année, je n'ai absolument rien prévu. Au départ, je pensais me rendre sur la côte Ouest pour admirer l'allée des baobabs et les tsingys mais malheureusement, la saison des pluies est arrivée plus tôt que prévu et l'accès à cette région n'est alors pas conseillé. Ce sera donc un séjour un peu plus reposant pendant lequel je vais découvrir la vie malgache au quotidien et les différents sitess de la capitale. A noter que la chaleur est présente tout au long de la journée et que la pluie (saison oblige) s'invite pratiquement chaque jour dans l'après-midi.

Pour ce premier jour, je profite que Gaëlle doit se rendre à la gare pour me balader avec le chauffeur le long de l'avenue de l'indépendance.





Je vais essayer de résumer un peu la situation du pays. Il y a un an, le maire de la capitale Andry Rajoelina monte une petite révolution et parvient à renverser le pouvoir du président Marc Ravalomanana. Des émeutes assez violentes auront lieu qui feront quelques morts. Rajoelina, surnommé TGV s'autoproclame président d'une "Haute autorité de transition". L'ex-président est exilé en Afrique du Sud. Depuis, c'est le chaos dans la politique Malgache. Aucune élection n'a eu lieu depuis et aucun accord entre les différents partis n'a été établi.
Lors des émeutes, les opposants au pouvoir avaient l'habitude de se réunir sur une place située le long de l'avenue de l'indépendance. Cette place était nommé place du 13 Mai. Le nouveau président, a fait contruire le nouvel Hôtel de ville de la capitale sur cette place symbolique. Le batiment est actuellement en cours de construction.



Au bout de l'avenue de l'indépendance se trouve la gare de Tana. Il s'agit d'une très belle gare qui malheureusement n'est plus guère utilisée puisque les trains de voyageurs sont quasi inexistants. Mais elle reste un magnifique témoin de la grande époque du rail.





Nous continuons à nous balader dans les rues de Tana pour découvrir les scènes classiques de la vie de ce peuple qui je le rappelle est un des plus pauvre au monde :

Chargment de riz.


Charette à zébus.


Nettoyage du linge dans la rivière puis sèchage au soleil.


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Trajet St Denis - Antananarivo 
1er Décembre : Au petit matin, je quitte le beau village de Hell Bourg sous le soleil pour redescendre vers le rush de la côte. Je m'arrête quelques minutes pour admirer le voile de la mariée que j'avais déjà pu voir il y a 2 ans. Il s'agit d'une cascade qui possède plusieurs bras. C'est pas évident de la prendre en photo tellement elle est large.





Après quelques dernières courses, je rejoint l'aéroport de St Denis où j'embarque pour Madagascar.



A mon arrivée, un chauffeur envoyé par Gaëlle m'attend et je redécouvre la circulation anarchique de Tana. Ca roule toujours n'importe comment. Pendant le trajet (et je crois que ca devient un rituel pour moi), on se fait arrêter par les flics. Après contrôle des papiers et une longue discussion incompréhensible entre le flic et le chauffeur, on m'explique que le flic était certain de m'avoir vu quelques jours auparavent au volant de la voiture et court-circuiter un rond-point et il voulait me coller une prune ! N'importe quoi !

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Tour du Piton des Neiges, 3ème partie : Marla - Hell Bourg 
30 Novembre : Après une bonne nuit passée au calme dans le cirque de Mafate, je reprend ma route vers 7h30 pour ralier Hell Bourg (cirque de Salazie), d'où je suis parti 2 jours plus tôt. Cette étape n'est certes pas la plus difficile mais elle sera la plus longue. L'accès au cirque de Salazie se fera via le col de Fourche. Lors de la montée, la vue sur le cirque de Mafate se fait de plus en plus belle.









Au cours de la montée, je traverse la plaine de Tamarins occupée par des locataires à 4 pates que je ne m'attendais pas voir ici.





J'arrive au col vers 9h40. Mais le plus dur reste à faire puisque jusqu'à Hell Bourg, il reste encore beaucoup de chemin à parcourir et mon genou me fait vraiment souffrir mais je n'ai pas trop le choix. Il faut bien que j'y arrive. Je prends mon temps et je fais pas mal de pauses aux endroits les plus sympas. Je suis accompagné par de nombreuses grenouilles.















Une fois la rivière du mât passée, j'arrive à l'ilet de Trou Blanc. Je remonte alors jusqu'à Hell Bourg en passant par les anciens thermes que j'avais déjà pu voir il y a 2 ans et dont le charme est toujours présent. J'arrive finalement à Hell Bourg vers 16h. C'est la fin de ma grande randonnée. Je suis mort mais content d'être arrivé au bout.







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