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Rémy 2009 : Retour à la Réunion et à Madagascar - Tour du Piton des neiges, 1ère partie : Hell Bourg - Cilaos

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Tour du Piton des neiges, 1ère partie : Hell Bourg - Cilaos 
27 Novembre : Il a plu abondamment une grosse partie la nuit ce qui risquait fort de compromettre la grande randonnée de 3 jours. Mais au petit matin, c'est un ciel dégagé qui m'attend. J'avale mon petit dej dans ma chambre vers 5h30 du matin (2h30 en métropole), je prépare mes dernières affaires, abandonne la voiture et enfile mon sac à dos pour 3 jours de randonnée. Au programme : le tour du fameux Piton des Neiges en 3 étapes en passant dans chacun des 3 cirques. Première étape donc... Hell Bourg (dans le cirque de Salazie) jusqu'à Cilaos (dans le cirque du même nom). Pratiquement 1500 m de dénivelé positif. Une randonnée classée difficile par les guides (et ils ont raison). Au départ je contemple le rempart qui se dresse devant moi et qu'il va falloir que je grimpe.





J'attaque la montée vers 6h et ca grimpe tout de suite très vite à travers la forêt de Terre Plate jusqu'au cap Anglais qui surplombe le cirque et que j'atteind vers 9h15. La pluie a rendu le sentier très glissant, surtout les rochers et les rondins de bois qui le forment. Il faut être très prudent. En cours de route, je fais une rencontre inattendue avec 2 petits hérissons en pleine forêt.













Une fois arivé au Cap Anglais, la montée se poursuit jusqu'au gite de la caverne Dufour, au pied du piton des neiges, mais elle est moins raide qu'avant. J'atteind le gîte vers 10h30.



J'aurais pu alors pousser jusqu'au sommet du piton. Je suis un bon grimpeur mais un mauvais descendeur et la descente m'inquiétait un peu. Mon bon sens m'a donc poussé à continuer mon chemin vers Cilaos. Et l'avenir me prouvera que j'avais raison puisque les 1100 m de descente sur Cilaos seront très pénibles pour les genoux. J'atteind la route vers 13h15 puis je la longe jusqu'à Cilaos que j'atteindrais 1h plus tard.







Je parcours ensuite la ville pendant encore une bonne heure à la recherche de mon hôtel. Ce n'est donc que plus de 8h après mon départ que je peux enfin me reposer un peu.

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Côte Sud et Est 
Je quitte ensuite les pentes du volcan pour longer la côte Sud depuis St Pierre puis remonter toute la côte Est jusqu'à St André. C'est à mon goût la partie la plus belle des côtes Réunionnaises. La mer y est d'un bleu profond et le bord de mer très sauvage avec une végétation luxuriante.









Je redécouvre au passage certains endroits qui m'ont fait craquer lors de ma première visite sur l'île comme l'anse des cascades où le pont suspendu de la rivière de l'Est. Malheureusement, la pluie me rattrappe en fin d'après-midi et ces sites n'ont alors plus vraiment le même charme.







Une fois à St André, je prend la route qui s'enfonce vers l'intérieur de l'île, dans le cirque de Salazie jusqu'au village de Hell-Bourg.

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Le piton de la Fournaise 
27 Novembre : Aujourd'hui, je décide de monter sur le volcan du piton de la Fournaise. Lors de mon dernier passage sur l'île il y a 2 ans, l'endroit était dans les nuages et je n'ai pas pu admirer grand chose. Cette fois, c'est un temps magnifique qui m'attend. J'attaque donc la longue route qui mène au monstre.



La route traverse une plaine nommée plaine des sables. Cette plaine est composée de scories et de pierres volcaniques rejetées par le volcan. Elle offre un paysage lunaire ahurissant.







Puis la route se poursuit jusqu'au bord de l'enclos Fouquet qui entoure le sommet du volcan. L'endroit s'appelle le pas de Bellcombe. Le ciel est très dégagé et cette fois le sommet m'apparati dans toute sa splendeur.







Le volcan est placé en état d'alerte depuis quelques semaines et quelques petites éruptions ont déjà eu lieu. L'accès à l'enclos et donc aux cratères principaux est interdit. Je n'observerai malheureusement aucune coulée de lave. L'activité du volcan est à suivre sur le site dédié au volcan www.fournaise.info

En redescendant, je fais une halte au cratère Commerson, un ancien cratère de 200 m de diamètre et 120 m de fond. Une passerelle a été aménagée au bord du gouffre afin de pouvoir l'observer. Un gros trou ! LOL ! Impressionnant !





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1ère randonnée : Le Maïdo - Le grand Bénare 
26 Novembre : Les hauts sont dans les nuages ce matin. Après quelques hésitations, je me décide quand même à attaquer la randonnée que je voulais faire : Partir du Maïdo (dans les hauts de St Paul) pour atteindre le sommet du grand Bénare juste en face du piton des neiges.





Le sentier (appelé chemin du grand bord) longe le rempart du Maïdo en surplombant le cirque de Mafate. Le cirque est complètement bouché par les nuages mais j'arrive parfois à entrevoir les ilets (petits villages coupé du reste du monde) dispersé par ci par là.



Un dénivelé positif de 740 m avalé en 2h30. Je me trouve à 2896 m d'altitude. Le piton des neiges (le plus haut sommet de l'océan indien) se trouve juste en face de moi et me surplombe de moins de 200 m (3071m). Une fois au sommet, je peux admirer la vue sur le cirque de Cilaos juste avant qu'il ne soit lui aussi envahi par les nuages.





En redescendant, je fais un détour par la glacière. C'est là que l'on ramassait la glace formée en hiver à la surface des bassins et qu'on la stockait dans des grottes ou des puits avant de la transporter à dos d'homme vers les bas (régions côtières). Ce système a fonctionné jusqu'au début du XXème siècle. C'était la minute culturelle du jour :-)



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Arrivée à la Réunion 
Bon, commencons par le commencement : Le vol de nuit s'est très bien passé, 3 places pour moi tout seul dans l'avion, c'est royal ! J'arrive à la Réunion en fin de matinée. Location de voitures, quelques courses et je pars pour la côte ouest jusqu'à l'Hermitage les bains, première étape relax du voyage. Petit hôtel très sympa dans un quartier très calme.





Je complète cette première journée par un petit tour à la plage très fréquentée pour bouquiner un peu. Trankil, quoi !





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